Exclusion as branding and marketing strategy

White Guy, the documentary about the rise and fall of Abercrombie & Fitch produced and recently released by Netflix, did not initially arouse my interest to watch though I still have few “logo-nized” apparels in my wardrobe. After having a peek which recalled my fashionista nostalgia back to 1990s, I made the call to follow the story.

Surprisingly, it opened my eyes understanding more about its marketing, branding and PR strategies. Grasping the human curiosity psychology, A&F stores stood out from the crowd on the street or in the mall with the display windows designed covered.

I remember the opening of the flagship store in 2012 in the busiest district, Central, Hong Kong drew a long queue of customers along Pedder Street. What’s behind the main entrance captivated your senses when you were greeted by a bunch of semi-nude muscular male models or Sales in the dimly lit and thoroughly fragranced room. The wooden floor, staircase with the red carpet and chandeliers make the A&F logo on the merchandises displayed on the racks or shelves shines. Needless to mention the posters with images of well-built white youngsters smiling and frolicking, and it is not yet the end of the “fantasy” without bringing home your purchase in shopping bags with a shirtless toned body of a guy.

A&F was made for the elite, cool and good-looking youngsters who have attitude towards their looks. The infamous CEO, Mike Jefferies, reinforced that the brand is made for those who fit in, and exclusion lays the foundation of the success. Further strengthening the foothold of the brand, specific guidelines on hiring staff came into play. Recruiters look for candidates with specific hairstyles, smiles, length of fingernails, and makeup which must be worn to enhance natural features and create fresh appearances.

Jeffries’s imperative to ensure that every details from the models, displays of merchandise, and the staff conform to the standard drove the retailer down to the road to a discrimination lawsuit filed in 2003. It disclosed that any Asian, African and Latino individuals hired by A&F were relegated to stockrooms as they could not be seen by customers. The retailer did not only pay $40 million to put an end to the litigation the next year, but was also ordered to appoint the Vice President of Diversity. The new policy to seek out minority employees does not pivot its fate to get out of the legal troubles.

That lawsuit was followed up by another headline-making case just over five years later. The Equal Employment Opportunity Commission filed suit against Abercrombie after the retailer refused to hire Samantha Elauf, a young Muslim woman, arguing that because she wore a headscarf or hijab from religious view, she did not comply with the company’s strict dress code. Such behavior violates the prohibition on religious discrimination.

Abercrombie brand was not cool anymore when customers refused to associate themselves with notorious acts of discrimination and exclusion, and the earnings dropped drastically. Jeffries may have left Abercrombie in 2014, but his penchant for strict and downright illegal branding techniques lives on as he put it during his tenure as CEO, “Do we go too far sometimes? Absolutely.”

With Diversity and Inclusion advocated and fought for by our generation worldwide, businesses and brands uphold ethics and respect humanity survive. Going too far or extreme as the business and branding strategies may break you a long way.